Saxelby Cheesemongers: Saw the Lady Herself

I had a chance to listen to Anne Saxelby of Saxelby Cheesemongers at ICE this week…if you are an avid reader, you know that I went through the culinary program there.

The School does a lecture series called “Meet the Culinary Entrepreneurs.” They had Ming Tsai, Anita Lo (of my most beloved Rickshaw) and Ariane Daguin of D’Artagnan. So this week, Anne Saxelby was the speaker. I had met her once before, when I went to pick up the cheeses that almost killed people on the plane to Portland. She was friendly and helpful and great that morning at Essex Street Market.

In front of a room full of management students, she was even better. She spoke honestly about starting her business, about what worked for and what didn’t. It was great to listen to the stories of her beginnings. When I worked at Murray’s, two years after she had left, people spoke of Anne Saxelby in hushed tones. Some were so proud. If you worked hard enough, and learned enough about the cheeses, you could love your very own cheeses somewhere else. I think others were concerned. If they learn too much about cheeses, they could move across town, open their own place and steel our customers. I’m all for people taking customers from Rob K. He always made me quiver with fear.

From Murray’s, Anne went to Cato Corners (home of the fantastic Hooligan) and then to Europe to study and eat cheese. Now, she has a tiny store next to the grumpy guy that cooks what he wants and serves who he wants. It is the perfect set up to sell only American, Artisanal cheeses. I know at Murray’s I was infuriated by anyone who asked me for “American Cheese” …looking for Kraft Singles but in a block. I wonder if she finds that. I hope not.

If you have not been to her store in the Essex Street Market, go! The size of the company (herself and a partner) only makes the experience feel more intimate. The selection is great, and you know because of the size that none of it is sitting around going bad.

And if you are really into cheese, sign up for her mailing list and go on her Day a Whey trips to farms. I have never been, but I hope that some day, one will line up with my schedule.